Pancetta-Wrapped Mushrooms

Pancetta, an Italian bacon that is cured but not smoked, is available in well-stocked supermarkets and in specialty food stores. If you can’t find it, substitute thin slices of regular bacon.

Ingredients:

• 24 mushrooms (with 1-in.-wide caps; about 5 oz. total), rinsed and patted dry
• Salt and fresh-ground pepper
• 24 fresh sage leaves, rinsed and patted dry
• 24 thin slices pancetta (about 6 oz. total; see notes) or 12 strips thin-sliced bacon

Directions:

1. Trim and discard tough or discolored stem ends from mushrooms. Sprinkle mushrooms lightly all over with salt and pepper.
2. Lay a sage leaf over the top of each mushroom, then wrap mushroom and sage leaf with pancetta. (If using regular bacon, cut each strip in half to form two shorter strips, and wrap each mushroom with a short strip.) If desired, leave tip of sage leaf protruding from wrapping. Spear mushroom with a toothpick, securing outer end of pancetta and leaving toothpick protruding to use for serving. Evenly space wrapped mushrooms in a 10- by 15-inch nonstick baking pan.
3. Bake in a 400° regular or convection oven until most of the pancetta is crisp and browned, about 25 minutes (see notes). Serve hot, leaving toothpicks in.